Dallas Simpson and Maggie Brosky
Photos by Anthony Leever
Getting Started
Starting any gear-intensive hobby like caving can be daunting. Our Florida caving gear guide aims to provide a primer on the types of gear you’re likely to need while caving in Florida. We regularly host vertical training days at our practice tower where you can try out gear and talk to other cavers if you’re still unsure of what vertical caving gear might work best for you. Check our Meetings and Events page to see when we have one scheduled.
It’s worth mentioning that everyone’s vertical kit will vary based on height, body shape, and personal preference. The key is to optimize your kit for effectiveness and safety. Opinions differ widely within the caving community, and you might dislike some of our recommendations. The brands and models listed here are not exhaustive but include some commonly used by many cavers. Everyone is different, so find what works for you. If in doubt, get in touch with us—we love talking about gear!
Where to buy caving gear?
Where should you buy your caving gear? We have a few recommended places that we use ourselves, but one place to avoid is Amazon for life-safety equipment. While there are honest merchants on Amazon, there’s no guarantee that the equipment was sourced from an authorized distributor. Brands like Petzl are often knocked off by sketchy offshore manufacturers. These counterfeit items may look identical to the genuine products but can be made from inferior materials and poorly constructed. Your life is worth more than the $40 you might save on a piece of gear.
Buying used gear is sometimes okay, but keep in mind that you don’t know its history. This means you have less guarantee of its safety and effectiveness. We always recommend buying new gear if you can.
These are some retailers we trust who are part of the caving community :
On Rope 1
Inner Mountain Outfitters (IMO)
Elevated Climbing (same folks as IMO)
West Virginia Underground
Contents
Essential Caving Equipment
Before buying a bunch of vertical caving gear there’s some basic caving gear you’re going to need first.
Helmets
Helmets are an essential piece of gear and typically the first item most of us buy for caving. Most hard-shell rock climbing helmets are suitable for caving, but bicycle helmets and hard hats are not appropriate. A helmet not only protects your head from the many incidental bumps you’ll encounter in Floridian caves but also from falling rocks. Additionally, it provides a place to mount your headlamp.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, Black Diamond
Headlamps
Another essential piece of gear for caving is your lights. Always have at least three sources of light with you in a cave. Fenix and Zebra Lights are favorites among cavers in Florida. Cheaper water-resistant headlamps can work as backups, but it’s worth investing in at least one or two good lights powered by rechargeable 18650 batteries. High-end caving lights with external battery packs are not only expensive but also overkill for the caving we’ll be doing. Keep a couple of extra 18650 batteries in your pack, stored in a waterproof container.
Popular manufacturers: Zebra Light, Fenix, Petzl
Packs
The hands-down favorite pack among cavers here is the Swaygo pack. Florida caves can be very wet, so you’ll want something waterproof. As an added bonus, the Swaygo can be used as a flotation device when the water gets too deep. While there are many caving packs on the market, most are not designed to keep your gear dry.
Popular manufacturers: Swaygo
Pads
While not essential gear, a good set of knee pads can make your caving trip much more enjoyable. Florida caves often require a lot of crawling, and your knees will thank you the next day. Investing in durable, comfortable knee pads can help prevent bruises and soreness, allowing you to explore longer and more comfortably.
Popular manufacturers: Crawl Daddies, OnRope1, PMI, Dirty Dave’s
Vertical Caving Gear
The primary rope climbing system we use here in Florida is known as the frog system. Designed to efficiently ascend and descend ropes, this versatile system includes a seat harness, chest harness, chest ascender, hand ascender, foot loop, and descender. By alternating between standing up using the hand ascender with foot loop and sitting back in the harness, cavers can safely ascend ropes with minimal effort. This method is favored for its reliability and ease of use when performing skills on rope like change overs or crossing rebelays, knots, and deviations
Seat Harness
A caving harness is specifically designed to close using a D-ring carabiner. for attaching your gear and has a lower attachment point to make ascending easier. These harnesses are significantly different from rock climbing harnesses. There is no one-size-fits-all for harnesses, and some popular options include the MTDE Amazonia 2, MTDE Varonia, PMI Pit Viper, Petzl Aven*, Petzl Super Avanti*, OnRope1 Goliath, AV Muruck, and AV Tecnibat.
*It’s worth noting that the current generation of Petzl Aven and Super Avanti harnesses tend to have some slippage in their leg loop buckles when ascending. It is recommended to ensure you have a few inches of extra webbing after the buckle to act as a buffer. Additionally, if you own one of these Petzl harnesses, you can contact their support to request rubber buckle caps, which help prevent the webbing from slipping.
Popular manufacturers: OnRope1, PMI, MTDE, Petzl, Adventure Verticale
D-Ring
A D-ring is the central attachment point for all your gear and holds your harness together. Also known as a half-moon, D-mallion, or half-round, this should always be a locking carabiner. Whether you choose a screw lock or auto-locker is a personal preference. If you use a screw lock, always double-check that it’s fully screwed in before getting on the rope and oriented so that the rope rubbing on the screw doesn’t loosen it as you ascend. Also with a screw-link, make sure you purchase one rated for climbing, not something from a hardware store.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, Mallion Rapide, Kong
Descender
For pitches under 200 feet (common in Florida), we recommend using a bobbin or a micro-rack. Anything over 200 feet may require a full-sized rack, although these can be overkill for shorter pitches and challenging for those with shorter torsos to perform change-overs without a third ascender. With any rack, you’ll need a quick link to attach it to your D-ring, whereas a bobbin requires a locking carabiner for safe attachment—using a fixed attachment like a quick link isn’t safe for a bobbin, and a locking carabiner isn’t safe for a rack. Bobbins also necessitate the use of a non-locking braking carabiner.
Choosing between a bobbin and a rack is a matter of personal preference. Racks offer smoother operation and adjustable friction, while bobbins are easier to rig and inherently safer against accidental rigging mistakes. Regardless of your choice, always conduct a rappel test to ensure proper rigging before descent.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, SMC, BMS, Climbing Technology
Cow’s Tails
A cow’s tail is a crucial piece of equipment in caving, consisting of dynamic rope tied and attached to your D-ring. It’s essential to use dynamic rope for shock absorption in case of a fall, especially since a cow’s tail can serve as a safety attachment. There are long and short ends to a cow’s tail: the long end holds a locking carabiner for hand ascenders, while the short end is used for clipping into traverse lines. Modern safety standards recommend using locking carabiners on both ends.
The short end of the cow’s tail should be as long as your forearm, with the carabiner reaching your elbow when held, while the long end should allow the bottom of your hand ascender to align with your forehead. Ensure it’s not too long, preventing you from reaching the hand ascender while hanging from it.
To create a cow’s tail, use approximately 10 feet of dynamic rope with a diameter of 9mm-11mm. Tie barrel knots at each end to attach carabiners and use either an alpine butterfly or figure 8 on a bight in the middle to attach to your D-ring. Adjustments may be needed as knots naturally tighten and rope lengthens with use. Many online retailers offer suitable dynamic rope sections specifically for making cow’s tails.
Hand Ascender
You’ll need two ascenders: a hand ascender and a chest ascender. Hand ascenders are available with or without handles, both of which function effectively. Handled ascenders provide easier grip, while models like the Petzl Basic (handle-free) are lighter and more compact for extended trips. Handled ascenders are also available in left and right-handed versions, chosen based on personal preference and your dominant hand.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, Climbing Technology, Kong
Foot Loops
There are several pre-made foot loops available, or you can make your own using high-quality webbing or cordage. A foot loop should ideally be the length from your foot to mid-chest. While a single foot loop is sufficient, many cavers prefer having two foot loops. This can be achieved either with a double foot loop or two independent single foot loops, depending on personal preference.
Popular manufacturers: OnRope1, PMI, Petzl,
Chest Ascender
The chest ascender is a crucial part of your vertical kit, serving as your progress capture device during rope ascents. The Petzl Croll L is widely regarded as the standard choice for chest ascenders. It’s available in two sizes, and for caving, the large version is recommended for thicker ropes commonly used.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, Climbing Technology
Chest Harness
The chest harness attaches to your chest ascender to keep it upright, allowing the rope to move freely through the ascender as you ascend. While not considered life-safety equipment, the chest harness should be comfortable and fit well.
Popular manufacturers: OnRope1, PMI, MTDE, Petzl, Adventure Verticale
Foot Ascender
Foot ascenders are optional equipment and are not rated as life-safety gear. They should never be used as a substitute for a chest or hand ascender in a frog system. However, foot ascenders are particularly useful on low-angled pitches where sit-stand cycles are challenging. They can also enhance climbing efficiency during longer, free-hanging vertical ascents.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, Climbing Technology
Carabiners
There are various types of carabiners, each serving specific purposes. Non-locking carabiners allow easy clipping in and out of traverse lines and rebelays. Locking carabiners come with either auto-locking or screw-lock gates to prevent accidental openings.
Remember, carabiners and quick links from hardware stores are not rated for climbing or life-safety applications.
For cow’s tails, a locking carabiner is recommended for the long tail attached to your hand ascender, while the short tail can use either locking or non-locking carabiners.
When attaching a descender, the type of carabiner depends on the descender type. Racks require a fixed attachment with a quick link, while bobbins need a locking carabiner. Bobbins also require an additional non-locking carabiner for braking; the Petzl Freino carabiner is ideal as it combines attachment and braking functions.
It’s also advisable to carry extra locking carabiners for rigging and emergencies.
Popular manufacturers: Petzl, Black Diamond, Mallion Rapide, Rock Exotica
So you bought a set of vertical caving gear, now what?
Now that you have your gear, it’s time to start using it. Like any skill, mastering vertical rope techniques takes practice, and the best way to improve is through hands-on experience. Before venturing into a cave, we recommend joining us at one of our tower practice sessions. These sessions provide a controlled environment where you can test your gear under the guidance of experienced cavers before heading underground. It’s a great opportunity to refine your skills, meet other cavers, ask questions, and build confidence in a safe setting.
What to Wear Caving in Florida
Anything you wear into a cave is unlikely to come out clean or unscathed. While personal preference plays a role in gear choice, here are some recommendations that work well for many cavers in Florida.
Clothing for Caving
Florida caves are warmer than those in other parts of the country, typically around the 70s°F. Water temperatures in wet caves also stay around 70°F year-round. Caving suits used in cooler regions like TAG are usually too warm for Florida caves unless you are exceptionally prone to feeling cold.
For dry caves you’ll want to wear comfortable long pants and a t-shirt. Or in wet caves some cavers prefer shorts with compression leggings and a polypro shirt. Optionally some cavers will also wear a 3mm wetsuit or some sort of neoprene under their caving clothes during long trips in wet caves.
Bring clothes you’re ok with getting dirty, wet, or muddy. Not all caves in FL are wet so be sure to dress accordingly.
Gloves
Gloves are highly recommended to protect your hands from cuts and abrasions caused by limestone, and to prevent rope burns when descending. They also protect delicate cave formations from oils on your hands.
Nitrile-dipped gardening or work gloves work best.
Shoes
Choose hiking-style shoes with a stiff sole, good ankle support, and strong tread. Synthetic or wool hiking socks are ideal. For wet caves, some cavers use neoprene scuba boots, but be aware they have softer soles, making you feel rocks more acutely.
Things to Keep in Your Pack
Synthetic Sweatshirt: Made from materials like Polartec or Thinsulate to retain thermal properties when wet.
Snacks and Drinks: If it’s a longer trip, bring a snack and a drink (like water or Gatorade). Remember, everything you bring in must come out, so empty bottles may need to double as portable toilets.
Extra Batteries: Extra batteries in waterproof container are a good idea to carry.
What to Bring for After Caving?
Change of Clothes: For after caving, include a garbage bag or bin for dirty clothes and gear.
Water for Washing Off: A gallon of water can be helpful for washing off dirt and mud after your caving trip.